Completely agree, Scoutsruel. I loved owning a two door when I was single and didn't have a family. Not to mention they just look cooler. However, as a parent with a child and dog, a two door isn't practical and would be a deal-killer for me. I will also say that I have really come to appreciate the extra cargo space a 4-door provides when you put the second row of seats down.A two door would obviously play into Scout heritage, but certainly I could understand the demographics you may be targeting whereby four door vehicles undoubtedly have broader appeal to an American audience (Bronco 4 door, Ford Wrangler Unlimited, Rivian R1S) with better packaging capability for things like spare tires. One thing that IHC did so well in the 70's was special packages for the Scout (Midas edition, SSII, Shawnee, Spirit of 76, etc). Jeep has obviously tapped into a wide array of special editions over the years and I think Scout will really benefit from doing these as well. Would love to see the split tailgate which was a hallmark of Scouts too. Forward tipping frunk lid like Scout hood?
Never did get around to replying to you on this.... See attachment.Do you have any mockups? Interesting idea, but why wouldn't you go with a Travelall? It's the IH version of the Suburban.
I personally like the last one. But, I do hope there is a 3 row Travelall. That market is huge and will help Scout.Never did get around to replying to you on this.... See attachment.
I don't want a Travelall because I want to be able to take the top off. Obviously we all know what a Traveler looks like with the top off, but here is what I have rolling around in my head that I am going to have done to my '77. I like the Scout II top over that of a Traveler and having a tailgate instead of a full hatch. I think 1/2 rear doors can be added similar to that of the 1/2 rear doors on Chevy or Ford pickup trucks so that the main door on each side has to be opened first to allow the back 1/2 door to be opened and prevent them from being actual suicide doors and being accidentally opened when your going down the road at speed. The catch is being able to roll the rear windows up and down and having them seal against the front window so that a B pillar is not needed between them.
I like the mockups, and obviously this being America you can do whatever you'd like, but it just seems like ADDING doors to a Traveler is WAY more work that making a Travelall top removable.Never did get around to replying to you on this.... See attachment.
I don't want a Travelall because I want to be able to take the top off. Obviously we all know what a Traveler looks like with the top off, but here is what I have rolling around in my head that I am going to have done to my '77. I like the Scout II top over that of a Traveler and having a tailgate instead of a full hatch. I think 1/2 rear doors can be added similar to that of the 1/2 rear doors on Chevy or Ford pickup trucks so that the main door on each side has to be opened first to allow the back 1/2 door to be opened and prevent them from being actual suicide doors and being accidentally opened when your going down the road at speed. The catch is being able to roll the rear windows up and down and having them seal against the front window so that a B pillar is not needed between them.
I have posted some but not with this particular designWould love to see options for open air, soft top or at least removable top.
Don't limit yourself, make fun of ALL Br*nco owners... and those other cars that 'wave'...Damn I was JUST thinking this.
It's silly, and we all make fun of the Bronco Sport owners...
@J AlynnHere’s a minor item. Used my daughter’s Bronco this weekend -left the windows down and a shower came through. I’m cool knowing inside of door got wet but armrest was really wet so I decided to wipe things down. I was drying it off and pulled door lever out (like I was opening door from inside) to dry the pocket. The top of the pull is depressed quite a bit, presumably to save material and there was a lot of water resting in it. As an open air vehicle-that just leaves an opportunity for nasty mold growth and gunk so just because you don’t see it doesn’t mean details shouldn’t be well thought out
I expect that water will enter. I just think when parts and assemblies are designed they should think about prevention of ponding and holding water. Cost saving designs to reduce metal on the pulls is fine but have a groove or trailing end in the design that lets the water out. Recesses and pockets that are exposed-visible or not visible for that matter should be designed to allow water to flow out rather than holding water which will in time rust or destroy systems within the vehicle. Drain plugs in the floor are more a sense of hosing down the interior to wash out the vehicle and I think that’s always an added plus for a vehicle designed to be enjoyed off road@J Alynn
Interested in hearing your expectation for Scout. In a comparable situation to the one you describe, do you personally expect/desire that any water that enters the Scout will drain out of the cabin space? The Bronco (with MGV) does offer a drain hole in the floor for front seat passengers. Should Scout have similar drain holes in addition to the holes for nooks where water might rest?
The big picture...there is not much that can be done to prevent water from entering nooks and crannies if the top / window is down while it is raining, but Scout designers could try to meet a minimum requirement for your scenario. Maybe your inputs can help to identify that minimum target.
Stumbled this again and the exhaust port for a mobile generator in the frunk could be a snorkel design so it vents the frunk but looks cool too. Might back vent into side windows if down so might need a rethinkI agree that adding a permanent ICE motor is not likely because the added complexity and the fact you would be carrying more weight around and not likely using it as much as one would think.
I really think the best option is prepping the “frunk” for a generator to be strapped in and used on the fly and in its place. This requires at least:
Exhaust pipe (that can easily be decoupled for generator removal) that gets the carbon monoxide away so it doesn’t come into the cab while driving (so you could run it while driving).
Adding air duct for both fresh air for the generator to run on as well as ventilation so it doesn’t overheat.
Prewiring the “frunk” for plug to charge within the space.
A 240V generator should fit just fine and allow additional range. I realize this doesn’t recharge in record time, but it would allow you to charge while driving, while parked, when there is a power outage, and when you otherwise need to have a generator (since it is removable). There is also V2H…meaning you could use your Scout potentially to power part of your house in a power out and have your generator securely running in your vehicle (these get stolen a lot - especially in power outs).