Scout Design Ideas

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This thread is a gold mine for product design.
I agree with most of it, except the hub-centric motors, as that kills the unsprung weight and thus handling.
I think an optional range extender is needed (diesel genny?), but determining a simple way to lift/lower/connect/disconnect will take some engineering. Back up to it and winch it up aft of the rear axle? Why not?
I think there's a real benefit for modular motor/transaxle units, with electronic disengage as well as locking. Combine these with portal axles and air suspension and you'd have a really versatile platform.
Re-using frame/motor/battery/controllers, you'd be able to make different scouts to suit the various customers:
1. Stripped-down Scout, analog-style gauges, soft-top, plaid, etc. for the classic look.
2. Dolled-up Scout, with the touchscreens, safety package (auto-braking, adaptive cruise control), leather, etc. for those that want it.
3. Military Scout, with the requisite changes for glass, fenders, voltage, etc.
 
Nice suggestions. Keep them coming.

It is worth pointing out that this week our CEO mentioned to the press that both the SUV and pickup truck will utilize an all-new body on a ladder-frame setup. So it will be rugged and durable. Plus it opens the door to lift kits and other modifications. This new BEV component platform is brand new and not shared with any other VW Group product. More technical details on the chassis coming in the months ahead but overall I think people will be impressed.
 
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A two door would obviously play into Scout heritage, but certainly I could understand the demographics you may be targeting whereby four door vehicles undoubtedly have broader appeal to an American audience (Bronco 4 door, Ford Wrangler Unlimited, Rivian R1S) with better packaging capability for things like spare tires. One thing that IHC did so well in the 70's was special packages for the Scout (Midas edition, SSII, Shawnee, Spirit of 76, etc). Jeep has obviously tapped into a wide array of special editions over the years and I think Scout will really benefit from doing these as well. Would love to see the split tailgate which was a hallmark of Scouts too. Forward tipping frunk lid like Scout hood?
Completely agree, Scoutsruel. I loved owning a two door when I was single and didn't have a family. Not to mention they just look cooler. However, as a parent with a child and dog, a two door isn't practical and would be a deal-killer for me. I will also say that I have really come to appreciate the extra cargo space a 4-door provides when you put the second row of seats down.
 
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I love how my scout II looks and how you can see, feel, and drive the road. Most cars bore me to drive. Reasonable priced, electric, heated mini beast with that old school scout II look and feel would be a dream. Please Don’t forget the little triangle window when you want fresh air on a cold day.
 
Howdy All,

I previously owned a Scout II and am currently rocking a 2014 Toyota Sequoia. My ideal specs for the new Scout (or maybe Traveller?) would be:
  • Similar size to the Gen 2 Sequoia (2008-2022) - it fits like a glove in most garages, has a nice turning radius, and a good amount of capacity for people and/or gear.
  • Able to haul up to 8 passengers or, remove rear seats to add gear capacity.
  • 2nd Row with a Bench Seat (can fit up to 3 passengers), with the option to remove the middle 30% altogether or convert it to a console. We had a 2010 Highlander Hybrid with this option and it was SWEET. Basically you can have your cake and eat it too. You don't need to choose between just a bench seat or 2 captain's chairs. If you remove this middle seat, the dog can lay down on the floor between the 2 middle row passengers.
  • Removable 3rd Row Seat - be able to fold it down or remove it altogether and stowe it in the garage.
  • Standard Roof Rails that run front to back - or at least start above the driver/passenger row and run to the back. The kind of rails on the current 4-Runner and 2nd Gen Sequoia are ideal in my opinion. They allow you to strap on a Thule Rapid Crossroad Railing foot pack and then you can add up to 78" long square bars. I do this on my Sequoia and then put 2 canoes on top and it is super stable.
  • Back window on the hatch either rolls down or pops open - for when you need to cram in the last few pieces of gear.
  • 400 mile range.
Cheers
 
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Do you have any mockups? Interesting idea, but why wouldn't you go with a Travelall? It's the IH version of the Suburban.
Never did get around to replying to you on this.... See attachment.
I don't want a Travelall because I want to be able to take the top off. :) Obviously we all know what a Traveler looks like with the top off, but here is what I have rolling around in my head that I am going to have done to my '77. I like the Scout II top over that of a Traveler and having a tailgate instead of a full hatch. I think 1/2 rear doors can be added similar to that of the 1/2 rear doors on Chevy or Ford pickup trucks so that the main door on each side has to be opened first to allow the back 1/2 door to be opened and prevent them from being actual suicide doors and being accidentally opened when your going down the road at speed. The catch is being able to roll the rear windows up and down and having them seal against the front window so that a B pillar is not needed between them.
 

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  • Traveler Concepts.pdf
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Never did get around to replying to you on this.... See attachment.
I don't want a Travelall because I want to be able to take the top off. :) Obviously we all know what a Traveler looks like with the top off, but here is what I have rolling around in my head that I am going to have done to my '77. I like the Scout II top over that of a Traveler and having a tailgate instead of a full hatch. I think 1/2 rear doors can be added similar to that of the 1/2 rear doors on Chevy or Ford pickup trucks so that the main door on each side has to be opened first to allow the back 1/2 door to be opened and prevent them from being actual suicide doors and being accidentally opened when your going down the road at speed. The catch is being able to roll the rear windows up and down and having them seal against the front window so that a B pillar is not needed between them.
I personally like the last one. But, I do hope there is a 3 row Travelall. That market is huge and will help Scout.
 
Never did get around to replying to you on this.... See attachment.
I don't want a Travelall because I want to be able to take the top off. :) Obviously we all know what a Traveler looks like with the top off, but here is what I have rolling around in my head that I am going to have done to my '77. I like the Scout II top over that of a Traveler and having a tailgate instead of a full hatch. I think 1/2 rear doors can be added similar to that of the 1/2 rear doors on Chevy or Ford pickup trucks so that the main door on each side has to be opened first to allow the back 1/2 door to be opened and prevent them from being actual suicide doors and being accidentally opened when your going down the road at speed. The catch is being able to roll the rear windows up and down and having them seal against the front window so that a B pillar is not needed between them.
I like the mockups, and obviously this being America you can do whatever you'd like, but it just seems like ADDING doors to a Traveler is WAY more work that making a Travelall top removable.

I also get that if you have the '77 Traveler, well that's a huge thing. You HAVE the vehicle already. I guess I'm just thinking it'd be structurally better and easier and safer to fab 3 things instead of all that work to ADD custom doors, glass, etc.

The Travelall even has the split gate tailgate of the Scout II you want.

Now all that said, me personally, I dislike the rear overhang/departure angle of the Scouts. Period. I'd like to have a Scout II body on the Traveler frame. That long wheelbase for towing, for stability, for stance/looks. The short body for usability and stance/looks. But that's just me(I also think converting it to EV would be amazing, hence the new Scout).

I totally get what your want is, but I just wonder if you might be better off trading the '77 for a '74/75 Travelall and chopping the top off.
 
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The removable roof is a must... but think sectional, like Porsche Targa tops... and or and all in one removable like the MBZ 450SL's...
Rear deck covers to make a 4/5 seater a 2 seater with covered rear deck... and airline L-Track for rear seat adjustments/removal, as well as click in/out configurable cargo/stuff storage....

Solid inner build with removable panels... replaceable panels.
 
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I like the pillarless 4 door like the Lincoln with tubular roll cage! There would be nothing like it anywhere. I also would prefer a 2 dr. Removable top for pickup and SUV.
 
Here’s a minor item. Used my daughter’s Bronco this weekend -left the windows down and a shower came through. I’m cool knowing inside of door got wet but armrest was really wet so I decided to wipe things down. I was drying it off and pulled door lever out (like I was opening door from inside) to dry the pocket. The top of the pull is depressed quite a bit, presumably to save material and there was a lot of water resting in it. As an open air vehicle-that just leaves an opportunity for nasty mold growth and gunk so just because you don’t see it doesn’t mean details shouldn’t be well thought out
 
Here’s a minor item. Used my daughter’s Bronco this weekend -left the windows down and a shower came through. I’m cool knowing inside of door got wet but armrest was really wet so I decided to wipe things down. I was drying it off and pulled door lever out (like I was opening door from inside) to dry the pocket. The top of the pull is depressed quite a bit, presumably to save material and there was a lot of water resting in it. As an open air vehicle-that just leaves an opportunity for nasty mold growth and gunk so just because you don’t see it doesn’t mean details shouldn’t be well thought out
@J Alynn

Interested in hearing your expectation for Scout. In a comparable situation to the one you describe, do you personally expect/desire that any water that enters the Scout will drain out of the cabin space? The Bronco (with MGV) does offer a drain hole in the floor for front seat passengers. Should Scout have similar drain holes in addition to the holes for nooks where water might rest?

The big picture...there is not much that can be done to prevent water from entering nooks and crannies if the top / window is down while it is raining, but Scout designers could try to meet a minimum requirement for your scenario. Maybe your inputs can help to identify that minimum target.
 
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@J Alynn

Interested in hearing your expectation for Scout. In a comparable situation to the one you describe, do you personally expect/desire that any water that enters the Scout will drain out of the cabin space? The Bronco (with MGV) does offer a drain hole in the floor for front seat passengers. Should Scout have similar drain holes in addition to the holes for nooks where water might rest?

The big picture...there is not much that can be done to prevent water from entering nooks and crannies if the top / window is down while it is raining, but Scout designers could try to meet a minimum requirement for your scenario. Maybe your inputs can help to identify that minimum target.
I expect that water will enter. I just think when parts and assemblies are designed they should think about prevention of ponding and holding water. Cost saving designs to reduce metal on the pulls is fine but have a groove or trailing end in the design that lets the water out. Recesses and pockets that are exposed-visible or not visible for that matter should be designed to allow water to flow out rather than holding water which will in time rust or destroy systems within the vehicle. Drain plugs in the floor are more a sense of hosing down the interior to wash out the vehicle and I think that’s always an added plus for a vehicle designed to be enjoyed off road
 
I agree that adding a permanent ICE motor is not likely because the added complexity and the fact you would be carrying more weight around and not likely using it as much as one would think.

I really think the best option is prepping the “frunk” for a generator to be strapped in and used on the fly and in its place. This requires at least:

Exhaust pipe (that can easily be decoupled for generator removal) that gets the carbon monoxide away so it doesn’t come into the cab while driving (so you could run it while driving).

Adding air duct for both fresh air for the generator to run on as well as ventilation so it doesn’t overheat.

Prewiring the “frunk” for plug to charge within the space.

A 240V generator should fit just fine and allow additional range. I realize this doesn’t recharge in record time, but it would allow you to charge while driving, while parked, when there is a power outage, and when you otherwise need to have a generator (since it is removable). There is also V2H…meaning you could use your Scout potentially to power part of your house in a power out and have your generator securely running in your vehicle (these get stolen a lot - especially in power outs).
Stumbled this again and the exhaust port for a mobile generator in the frunk could be a snorkel design so it vents the frunk but looks cool too. Might back vent into side windows if down so might need a rethink
 
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